Good Morning from Red Lodge, Montana


The sun has barely peeked over Red Lodge when we rise from our snug king suite at The Pollard — jacuzzi tub still looking at me like, “You’ll miss me later,” and my birthday cake sitting on the dresser like a half-eaten trophy of celebration and sugar-based triumph. Jeremy polishes off his eggs Benedict, I shamelessly inhale pancakes, and we check out like wandering adventurers being sent off by an innkeeper who has definitely seen some things.


The front desk clerk warns us about Beartooth Highway — with that tone folks use when they're trying to scare you straight but also know you’re too stubborn to turn back. And listen, I have survived steep hills, questionable roads, and one unfortunate Minnesota axle-incident that forever rewired my brain about going downhill too fast. So if the mountains thought they were going to intimidate me, they were sorely mistaken.


Well… mostly.

Vintage-style moose silhouette sign for The Pollard Gift Shop against striped wallpaper.
Vintage handwritten letter on C.W. Ham & Co. letterhead with yellowed paper.
Elegant vintage sitting area with green leather chairs and round table near a window.
Traditional wood-paneled room with floral sofas, grandfather clock and framed artwork.

Beartooth Loop


Beartooth Loop unfurls before us like something straight out of Middle-earth — misty peaks, sweeping valleys, and cliffs dramatic enough to make even a dwarf gasp before loudly pretending they didn’t. We stop every chance we get, partly for photos and partly so braver drivers (and motorcyclists with zero regard for mortality) can scoot on by.


Then, out of nowhere — a lake. Glassy, perfect, framed by mountains like nature herself said, “Oh, you're taking pictures? Let me help you with the lighting.”


While I am busy playing photographer of the realm, Jeremy starts to spot mysterious furry creatures scampering about. We soon learn — courtesy of a kind traveler from Michigan — they are marmots. Tiny mountain guardians, if you will. The kind of critters that definitely gossip about hikers behind their furry paws.


Then we continue on, descending toward the mythical land of Yellowstone. More lakes, one surprise waterfall (thank you, mysterious roadside pull-off!), and finally — the Northeast Entrance, where bison await like ancient gatekeepers.

A winding mountain road leads toward a dramatic peaked mountain under blue summer skies.
A hiker stands on an alpine ridge overlooking snow-patched mountains and valleys under a bright blue sky.
Marmot standing upright in alpine meadow with mountain flowers.
Aerial view of forested mountain valley with winding roads and steep cliffs.
A vibrant blue alpine gentian flower blooms in a mountain meadow surrounded by yellow wildflowers.
A marmot forages on a rocky mountain slope covered in alpine wildflowers.
Two marmots resting on rocky mountain slope with patches of snow.
A single purple wildflower blooms against a blurred green natural background.
Rushing white water cascades through a rocky gorge surrounded by evergreen forest.
Small marmot perched on rocky mountain terrain with snow patches.
Delicate white alpine flowers bloom among green grass on a mountain meadow.
Panoramic view of alpine lakes and snow-covered peaks stretching across a mountain range.
Wooden Beartooth Loop informational sign on mountain summit with snowy peaks in background.
Alert marmot standing on rocky mountain outcrop with snowy background.
Dramatic mountain landscape with snow patches and alpine lakes under bright blue skies.

Soda Butte Geyser


We admire Soda Butte Geyser and simultaneously pretend not to see the man climbing all over it like a human “don’t be that guy” PSA. Sir, this is sacred geothermal ground, not a jungle gym.


Just as we are backing away from the geyser, fate tosses us a bonus challenge: bison, up close and personal. I tip-toed away while snapping photos like a woman torn between survival instincts and needing to capture the wildlife shot.


Let me tell you — if Tolkien had set a chapter in Lamar Valley, he'd have had elves picnicking with bison and birds harmonizing on top of their wooly heads. It was magic. Herds everywhere. Babies! Their little legs! I nearly burst into song like a Disney heroine.

Dramatic rock formation rises against blue sky with white clouds in mountainous terrain.
A dark brown bison grazes in a lush green field dotted with small white flowers.
Large layered rock outcropping stands prominently against mountain backdrop and blue sky.
A bison with small birds perched along its back grazes in a green summer meadow.

Northeast Yellowstone National Park


Then came our first black bear sighting — cars pulling over, people gathering like we’d stumbled onto a royal wedding. The bear saunters through the meadow, probably thinking about snacks and regretting nothing.

Black and white photograph of dramatic multi-tiered waterfall surrounded by pine forest.
Winding river cuts through green mountain valley under dramatic blue sky.
Scenic mountain landscape with snow-capped peaks and green valley under blue sky with puffy clouds.
Majestic cascading waterfall flows through evergreen forest in mountainous terrain.
Black bison walking along a tree-lined path near parked vehicles.
Baby bison standing in a grassy mountain meadow with wildflowers.
Young bison calf grazing in wildflower-filled mountain meadow.

Mammoth Hot Springs


Lunch at Mammoth Hot Springs was outdoors, courtesy of COVID precautions, but honestly? Eating sandwiches under big Western skies between geothermal wonders feels like something a hobbit would brag about forever. Afterwards, we admire elk lounging in the front yards of ranger housing like they pay the mortgage. Fawns, velvet-antlered bucks — the whole majestic catalogue.


We wander Mammoth’s formations — Liberty Cap (named politely now, though history has… opinions), Devil’s Thumb, Palette Springs with its dreamy layers of color. I swear half this park feels like the earth got really into watercolor at some point.

A spotted fawn rests peacefully on green grass beside a white building wall.
Two young deer share an intimate moment nose-to-nose on bright green grass.
Three young elk graze together on bright green grass during summer.
Terraced white mineral deposits at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park under blue sky.
A lone elk stands among sagebrush with green meadow and rocks in the background.
A tall limestone formation stands like a sentinel against stormy skies in Yellowstone.
Two elk rest in the shade beneath a large tree trunk on lush green grass.
A young elk stands alert in a dry grassland with golden-brown fur and distinctive black neck markings.
An elk stands alert in sagebrush terrain with rocky outcroppings in the background.

Obsidian Wall


The obsidian wall itself is actually hard to photograph as it just looks like a dark cliff, perhaps leftover remains from Sauron's time. I love the scenery along the trail though, with the little stone bridge. And, of course, I take a picture of the obsidian rock along the walk.

Pine trees frame a meandering stream through a verdant mountain meadow under blue skies.
Abstract texture with dark blue and golden tones creating a marbled effect in natural stone.
Tranquil stream winding through lush green meadow with dense pine forest and stone structure in background.

Western Yellowstone National Park


From there we follow waterfalls, sleepy bison, and one particularly handsome bull elk. Yellowstone Canyon glows the exact shade of gold that makes you understand why someone went, “You know what? Let’s name the whole place after this.”


We hike, we marvel, we sweat. I take photos like my memory only works when backed up by a camera roll.

Aerial view of a thermal pool surrounded by green hills and forest in Yellowstone National Park.
Large bison resting in green grass field at Yellowstone National Park.
Majestic elk with antlers grazing in vibrant green meadow.
Bull elk with impressive antlers resting in sunlit meadow with fallen logs.
Wooden viewing platform overlooking cascading waterfall in rocky forest terrain.
Grand Canyon of Yellowstone with turquoise river flowing through dramatic yellow stone cliffs.
Cascading waterfall flowing over moss-covered rocks in dense forest setting.
Majestic Lower Falls of Yellowstone cascading down steep canyon walls surrounded by pine trees.
Dramatic view of Yellowstone Falls flowing between steep canyon walls surrounded by evergreen forest.
Wooden boardwalk stairs winding along steep cliffs in Yellowstone National Park.

Norris Geyser Basin


Then on to Norris Geyser Basin — steaming, bubbling, hissing earth like the planet has opinions and isn’t afraid to voice them.

Aerial view of Porcelain Basin's thermal features and mineral deposits in Yellowstone National Park.
Steaming geyser erupting amid colorful hot springs and thermal features in Yellowstone's landscape.
Active geothermal area with steam vents and colorful hot springs surrounded by pine forest.
Turquoise geothermal pools contrast with white mineral deposits in Yellowstone's volcanic basin.
Vibrant turquoise hot spring pool surrounded by white mineral deposits in Yellowstone's geothermal area.
Colorful geothermal landscape with steam vents and hot springs under blue sky at Yellowstone.
Deep emerald green hot spring pool surrounded by mineral-crusted earth in Yellowstone.
Vibrant geothermal hot spring with turquoise waters surrounded by evergreen forest in Yellowstone National Park.

Gibbon Falls


Gibbon Falls greets us like the final dramatic flourish of an already theatrical day — and even a raven perches nearby like a feathery concierge welcoming guests.

Majestic waterfall cascades down rocky cliffs surrounded by dense pine forest in mountainous terrain.
Black bird perched on bare aspen tree branch against blurred green forest background.

Leaving the Park


We journey on to Island Park, Idaho — where the bar at Connie’s feeds us like royalty (hospitality magic is real) and Springhill Suites attempts to house half the western United States with maybe twelve parking spaces and a prayer.

Black cat resting beside weathered wooden stump on concrete ground.
Vintage decor featuring antique cash register, wooden telephone, and rustic mountain-themed sign on green wall.
Mirror selfie showing a casual outfit and curly hair.
Modern restaurant interior with circular pendant lights and wood paneled walls.
Severe sunburn shown on shoulder with clear tan line demarcation.
Elegant game room with pool table, designer lighting fixture, and stone fireplace.

Good Morning (Again)


Our carriage is BLOCKED IN by two very rude lads who act like we are the inconvenience. I fume. Jeremy agrees. The saga continues.


Breakfast? Cold gas-station sandwiches in hotel to-go bags. The great breakfast betrayal of Yellowstone 2020. I have never been personally victimized by a sausage biscuit before, but there’s a first time for everything.


Finally free, we head back to the park, pausing only for a little shopping at West Yellowstone, dodging crowds like seasoned warriors avoiding Orc patrols.

Firehole Falls


Firehole Falls welcomes us with mist and song.  It is nice driving along the river, and of course, I always love waterfalls. 


We barely see anyone on the road, and we believe that we beat the day rush for the Park, a. win, for our introverted selves out in the wild.

Rushing waterfall flowing through rocky terrain amid pine forest in mountainous landscape.
A rushing river flows through a forested landscape with rocky shores and evergreen trees in the background.

Lower Geyser Basin


Geyser basins smoke and shimmer like the earth itself is releasing wisdom it has learned across the ages.

Colorful orange and blue hot spring pools in Yellowstone's geothermal landscape.
Steamy landscape with yellow and brown mineral deposits forming terraces near a hot spring.
Steam rises from the geothermal features of Yellowstone's mineral-rich terraces under dramatic clouds.
Steaming turquoise geothermal pool surrounded by mineral deposits in a volcanic landscape.
Vibrant blue and yellow hot spring with steam rising against a cloudy sky.
Yellow and brown mineral formations with steam and water droplets at a geothermal feature.
A rocky mound formation rises from a barren landscape under dramatic cloudy skies in Yellowstone National Park.
Turquoise hot spring emits steam under cloudy skies in a geothermal basin.
Dark blue hot spring with orange mineral deposits around its edges in volcanic terrain.
Steam rises dramatically from a cracked mud geyser crater in a geothermal landscape.
White and orange mineral deposits form a conical mound with steam venting in a barren landscape.
Scenic view of a steaming geothermal area in Yellowstone National Park with green meadows and dramatic cloudy sky.
Geothermal steam rising from rocky ground with evergreen trees in the background.
Vibrant blue geothermal pool with orange bacterial mats and rising steam in Yellowstone.
Vibrant turquoise hot spring pool with colorful mineral deposits and steam rising in Yellowstone National Park.

Midway Geyser Basin


We make our way to the Midway Geyser Basin next, and let me tell you — if nature had a spa district, this would be it. Steam rises like ancient magic, swirling over colorful pools that look suspiciously like someone let a rainbow melt. We cross a little bridge on our way in, watching hot, enchanted-looking water pour straight into the Firehole River. In case the bubbling cauldrons aren’t clue enough, there are signs reminding you not to treat this area like a casual swimming hole unless you’d like your skin to politely leave your body. Good to know.


Of course, every other intrepid traveler in Yellowstone has the same idea today, because this place is the busiest we’ve seen so far. It feels like half the continent woke up and chose to witness geothermal magic.


There is a parking lot, but it’s more of a suggestion really — as in, “suggest you park half a mile down the road and begin your pilgrimage from there.” And that is exactly what we do. We lace up our shoes and walk the road.


Naturally, I stop to take a few photos along the trail — of us, of the mist, of the steaming pools ahead — because if you go to a geyser basin and don’t document the mystical cauldron-water and your wind-tousled hair, did you even go?

Orange bacterial mats and thermal features spread across geothermal landscape.
Two people enjoying a hiking adventure in a pine forest.
Steaming turquoise hot spring pool surrounded by mineral deposits and forested hills in Yellowstone.
Abstract patterns of mineral deposits form geometric lines and terraces in thermal area.
Steaming waterfall cascades down rocky cliff face into dark lake below.
Wooden footbridge crosses river with steam vents and geothermal features in mountainous landscape.
Hiker walking along a dirt trail through a serene forest of tall pine trees.
Misty blue hot spring with mineral-crusted edges against cloudy mountain backdrop.
Serene turquoise hot spring pool reflects cloudy sky with pine forest in background.
A winding dirt path leads through a dense forest as a hiker explores the trail.
Turquoise hot spring pool surrounded by orange mineral deposits in Yellowstone's geothermal basin.
Vibrant orange and blue thermal pool with rising steam and bacterial mats in Yellowstone.
Close-up of pine needles with water droplets and yellow buds in soft focus.
Tall pine trees stand in uniform rows creating a majestic forest landscape.

Old Faithful


Old Faithful is so beloved and famous that she has her own dedicated exit system off the main road. I mean, when a geyser has better traffic control than most concert venues, you know she’s a star. By some stroke of traveler’s luck — or perhaps a blessing from whatever Yellowstone spirit watches over weary wanderers — we pull in with a perfect ten minutes to spare before her next scheduled performance.


Front-row bench seats welcome our wearied bodies, thank you very much. Some folks wait hours for less; we simply glide in like it was meant to be. Call it fate, call it timing, call it the universe not wanting us to miss a once-in-a-lifetime water explosion. We receive it gladly either way.


As we sit, waiting like eager theater-goers before the curtain rises, birds flit around the boardwalk as though they, too, have tickets to a show. Off in the distance, a bison decides to play security guard and wanders a little too close to a cluster of wide-eyed spectators. You never know if you should say “Aww” or “Start running,” so we simply observe, slightly alarmed but trying to look casual, like seasoned adventurers would.


Old Faithful likes to tease — there's no rushing a queen. She begins with soft sighs of steam, then gradually builds, hissing and billowing with dramatic flair. You can feel the energy shift when she's ready. The steam thickens, the crowd hushes, and you just know something ancient and powerful is about to happen.

Old Faithful geyser erupting with steam against evergreen forest and cloudy sky in Yellowstone National Park.
Mountain bluebird foraging in a field of spring wildflowers.
Steam rises from Old Faithful geyser under dramatic cloudy skies in Yellowstone National Park.
Dramatic black and white photograph of a massive geyser eruption with steam rising against dark clouds.
Blue mountain bird stands among tall grass and yellow wildflowers.
Steam rises from a geyser in Yellowstone's vast landscape under dramatic storm clouds.
A small blue bird perches on sandy ground surrounded by sparse grass in a natural outdoor setting.
Small blue bird perched among yellow wildflowers in a grassy field.
Geothermal landscape with steam vents under stormy skies in Yellowstone.

Yellowstone Lake


As rain starts to pour dramatically from the heavens, because the story demanded atmosphere, we made our final pilgrimage to Yellowstone Lake — serene, vast, the kind of place you could write a poem about and still not do it justice.

Serene lake view with evergreen trees and snow-capped mountain peak in the distance.
Scenic fjord landscape with green shoreline and mountains under cloudy skies.
Small forested island on a misty lake with pine trees lining the ridge.

Leaving the Park


We drive onward through mist and mountains toward Grand Teton — tired, grateful, sun-toasted, trail-dusted, and feeling that soft ache you get when nature reminds you she is grand and ancient and worth every mile it takes to see her.